A piece of Paradise in Perugia

Without neglecting the many other lovely spots in the city of Perugia, I would like to tell you about one in particular. Hidden behind the San Pietro Church there´s - very well kept by the Agricultural College of the University of Perugia – the Orto Medievale (medieval garden).

Typical for those times, the design of the garden is based upon a lot of symbols. I am not going to reveal all of them, but you can ask for a map 1, available in several languages, that explains them so you can completely understand them and make sure you won´t miss anything.

The first, oval shaped part of the garden represents Paradise. In the oval are three circles, each with a tree. The first tree is the Albero della Vita (tree of life), in the middle, on a `mountain` stands the Albero della Luce e della Scienza (tree of light and knowledge).

Four little wells spring forth from the mountain, called water, wine, milk and honey.

The last circle contains the Albero della Conoscenza del Bene e del Male (tree of knowledge of good and bad). You won´t be suprised that this last tree is a fig.

The centre of this Paradise is divided in twelve equal parts symbolizing the Zodiac. Each part contains the herbal plant that belongs to its zodiac sign.

Outside of Eden, you reach the Dark Forest that represents the Bad, the Sin. Yet, it´s is also the Holy Forest, with a.o. The Tree of Perfection, Tree of Spirit and the Tree of The Cross.

In the tower next to the Dark Forest you can see a reconstruction of an alchemist´s laboratory, before entering the second zone of the holy forest where the Tree of Justice, the Tree of Youth and many many others reign.

Leaving the forest you step into the Garden of Health that hosts many medical herbs, followed by the Holistic garden with its aromatic herbs. There, seven little round basins symbolize the influence of the stars. Below the so called Podium, a small cave contains purifying water running from two little falls.

Descending again you will reach the Theatrum that is built on the remains of an ancient fountain and a patio which is covered by vines and roses.

Passing an ancient sarcophagus you will return to the entrance. I would not be surprised if the only thing on your mind, like it was on mine, will be `I want to walk back in again.`

1 The explanation is based upon `Il Giardino dello Spirito`  (Alessandro Menghini)

EVOO 2013

I wrote about the frantoi aperti before but being here in Umbria in fall means being immersed in olives, oil, catching nets, trees, rastrelli (rakes), coffins and more often than not you´ll see people in stained working clothes. There´s simply no way to avoid it.

Almost every village has its frantoio, the mill, where the local famers have their olives pressed and while waiting, have a bruschetta from the fire to taste the olio novello.

(c) Monteolivo

(c) Monteolivo

Once a year, to show the less fortunate how the process from growing olives to picking them and turn them into this liquid gold proceeds, the frantoi aperti (open mills) are organized. You can visit olive groves, see the inside of the mills, taste and buy the new oil and related products.

(c) Monteolivo

The easiest way is to subscribe to an organized guided tour by bus and get a completely organized tour, but you can also make your own choice and pick one or two frantoi. For the last three years, I went to Trevi and visited the Frantoio Olio di Trevi, for they really know how to throw a party.

(c) Monteolivo

Inside you can visit the factory, see and hear how the machines run and how the oil is canned or bottled. 

There´s also a video running to show you the whole aforementioned process and some impressive, ancient used tools can be admired.

(c) Monteolivo

There´s a small trattoria to have a wine or a small dish at really acceptable prizes and think about the purchases you´ll make because the new oil is sold in the small shop in the front. You can buy different types of oil, olio famiglia, filtered or not, seasoned oil, olio delicato, several products made with olive oil, you name it. I wrote about that before.

(c) Monteolivo

(c) Monteolivo

Outside it´s always fun. I had a bruschetta again and admired the cheese and sausages that were sold.

(c) Monteolivo

I talked to some people who also enjoyed the atmosphere and the music played by Alter Ego and had a lot to say about olives, but we agreed on one thing: this is EVOO* and it deserves all four capitals.

(c) Monteolivo

When you have the opportunity: you can still go there today, or at least grab the chance next year.

Like I said, there's simply no way to avoid it...... because this is what we do in Umbria.

(c) Monteolivo

* Extra Vergine Olio di Oliva

Tasting wine in Montefalco

Exactly one week ago I made a very nice trip in the Montefalco surroundings. I could write page after page about Montefalco itself and you know what? I will. But not this time, because I am supposed to tell you about its Sagrantino.

For the readers who expect a review on the quality of this wine: send me your email address and I will get you in touch with a sommelier who knows all about it and can organize private tours to the Montefalco cantine as well.

This article is about the two cantine (wineries) I visited. There are way more in Umbria and several ways to visit them, but the tour I took had been organized by LaStrada del Sagrantino This office organizes various events throughout the year, so check their website.

We met on the Piazza del Comune in the centre of Montefalco where a comfortable small bus was waiting for us. It brought us to the first Cantina, Scacciadiavoli. It is named after a small village bordering the vineyards and means `drive out the devils.` In fact, that is one purpose the wine has served in ancient times. The winery became owned by the Pambuffetti family and is currently run by the fourth generation.

The cantina was built in 1884 expressly for processing the grapes into wine, and has not, like many others, originally been a residence or farm. The grapes arrive from the vineyards on the fourth floor, where they are selected and then brought to the third level to ferment and vinified in huge wooden or stainless steel barrels.

The Montefalco Rosso DOC rests for a year on the ground floor, the Sagrantino DOCG and Passito DOCG age for two years at the underground level.

After these interesting stories we arrived in the Sala del Degustazione to taste some of their wines and some bread, ham and cheese. No need to say it all tasted great.

After that the bus was waiting again and brought us to a smaller cantina, Moretti Omero. It has been founded after World War II and since then been a family farm. The pictures on the walls testify to a long and shared tradition of passion for the winery and growing olives. And so did the contagious enthousiasm of our guides that showed the property with pride. 

The property contains 18.000 vines and 4500 olives, that are all exclusively grown by an organic method for over 20 years. This means that all the products are controlled and guaranteed¹ by the ICEA² and the AIAB³ . Moretti Omero has won several prizes and mentions.

We tasted their products of which I remember the Grecchetto and the Montefalco Rosso in particular. Though it has little to do with wine, I must mention the Insalata di farro (speltsalad) the owners prepared, for that was very comforting too.

After this pleasant visit we headed back to Montefalco again and I thought there are still a lot more cantine to discover, but these two certainly gave me a very pleasant afternoon.

1Source: www.morettiomero.it

2Instituto Certificazione Etica e Ambientale

3Associazione Italiana Agricoltura Biologica