Excellent Eggi

In the past two days I visited three spots in Umbria. Spoleto, that has been my hometown for ten years and that I was more or less forced to give up. When I was there, I used to have a fixed routine, starting with the Arco di Druso followed by a coffee at the Piazza del Mercato to chat with the owner, whom I still called `signore` and the formal `lei` even after ten years, while he, undisturbedly, called me `tu.` The Italians have their own opinion about how things should be and it only seemed right this way. After my coffee I used t head for the Duomo with a pause for visitiing the SS paolo e Pietro to admire the splendid fresco´s. I am not going to write anything about the Duomo for each book and every blogger has been going on and on about every detail of it. But don´t leave it for that would be a crime against culture.

After the Duomo I mostly walked the Ponte delle Torri and visited the Rocca Albornoz, or I went straight to the downhill street to visit the nice shops and think what a difference a lot of money could make. Then I used to walk back up to end (all wheezy) at the Angolo Anticho where the owner, Paolo, prepares a wild boar dish that gives the word `divino` a complete different sound.

I hadn´t been in Spoleto for three years and the first disappointment struck me immediately: my coffeebar was gone and the windows were covered with old newspapers. The SS Paolo e Pietro was closed and on my way to the Duomo, the newspapers became familiar. Thank God the Duomo was just the Duomo and beautiful as ever. Unfortunately, the road downhill had only more paperwork than shops to offer. I can only hope they´ve found a better location.

A little frustrated I had lunch at Ristorante Canasta near the Amphiteatre. The lunch was great, by the way.

I have to add that I was feeling a bit poorly, so maybe that affected my impression.

The next day I went to Spello – Splendidissima Colonia Julia and luckily, it still is. It was the Festa dell´ Infiorata on the occasion of Sacrament Sunday and the Procession of Corpus Domini. Also the houses were decorated with flowers, for there was a contest about the nicest balcony, window or `angolo.` From my point of view: there were a lot of competitors.

A good counterpart for the previous day.

My next stop was Eggi. I always considered it a hamlet situated at the beginning of the road to the Valnerina and I passed by a million times without a second thought, because, well, who ever visites Eggi? I did.

I am not a city girl but after Eggi, there´s no hope left I will ever become one. Eggi is a picturesque little village with small, steep alleys, a beautiful church with frescos inside and the remains of an old wall. Against that wall, the – each one off them very nice – inhabitants made lovely spots with fruit trees, vegetables and herbs.

Even the cats in Eggi were all friendly which is always a sign that life is good.

So again.... I am forever lost in the Umbrian countryside...

Take me home... to the place.. I belong

I am lucky to start spring in Umbria. Even though I have known better days, I shall not complain about my first two days in march 2013.

Yesterday was a plain sunny afternoon that I spent in the sunshine, now and then restlessly roaming around the property because the sounds of my neighbour pruning his olive trees and the birds singing made me want to be part of it.

This morning I woke up seeing a blue sky, there was hardly any wind and everything seemed just right. It was.

I went to the Frantoio Olio di Trevi and had a great time, but I will tell you about that seperately, it´s too interesting to include it in this blog.

I ate my lunch outside and then it became a bit cloudy. The temperature was fine though, so can you think of anything better than discovering the beauty of the Umbrian countryside?

Close to my home I had seen a hamlet called Torri (guess why) and I went there. Some of the houses are still in use, others have been left. 

Quite a pity for it´s a pittoresque village with stunning views of the countryside. At least, I made one friend.

Driving on I came across the Castello of Barratolo which is an agriturismo now. I met a few dogs and two tiny cats and three nice women so that was enough to make Barratolo nice to have visisted.

The last village to visit was Sarangano but on the way there I ran into this little chappel. The door was open but blocked by a rope that accidentally fell down when I touched it. 

I felt guilty about that so I thought the only thing I could to repay was taking a picture of the interior. Quiet and serene in its beauty.

On my way back I could not get enough of the views. It´s almost impossible to describe the overwhelming rolling hills and it´s equally difficult to take a good picture, but I tried.

A good beginning is half the battle...

Umbria´s amazing country secrets

After all the blogging I did it will be obvious that I am not a citygirl. Although going shopping now and then (more now than then) can be very comforting and I will never turn down an offer for lunch in a good restaurant, I am not really into crowds of people and a lot of traffic.

The Umbrian cities are the best. Their town centres are mostly car-free which means that one can quietly enjoy the medieval buildings, picturesque alleys and cultural resources, of which I have hardly seen so many anywhere else. 

Yet, at the end of such a rewarding day, it makes me feel happy to see the rolling hills of Umbria and to get possessed by the sounds of silence.

Relative silence, of course. Writing this, I hear the birds sing obsessively. They have taken their nest right below my bedroom window and every year I remember that I should have removed it..but you know, I actually love it. Then there are my neigbor´s hunting-and-truffle dogs who start barking everytime a flie comes by. It has become a sport to complain about them, but to be honest: I hardly notice them anymore.

Comes autumn there´s the sound of hunters in the woods. Once in a while it sounds like a shot is fired at only a few meters from where I am. I sometimes suspect that to be the truth. But at the risk of offending the vegetarians among us, I love wild boar or hare plates.

Speaking of hare, several times there was one on our road in March so I thought a picture would be nice. Of course he didn´t show up anymore and the one time he did, I was too late so I shot a great picture of the olivefield with its beautiful trees, green grass and The Invisible Hare.

It´s amazing how every corner on the road may provide you a new surprise. Sheep wandering up the hills, their guarding dogs looking cute but always paying attention.

A few goats that refuse to step aside to let you pass but start running the moment you want to take their picture.

And how about picking flowers and suddenly face Someone leaving the water? I tried to look up who I met – only to make sure that I had not been talking to a common rat – but I could not figure out.

Not to mention the people you meet. Somewhere near Casale I met a farmer cutting grass the medieval way. He told me that people wouldn´t be interested in his face, but that I was allowed to picture his tool and showed me how to handle it. I need practise, for I only cut a large piece of mud.

If I ever get the cance to stay here I really need a better hand for things.

Of course, it´s not real wildlife. I mean, it´s not like you have to survive in the jungle and of course there´s a central heating in the house,but it is so satisfying to sit by the fire, fueled by wood you have cut yourself. Or to eat a frittata, stuffed with the ten asparagi you managed to discover.

To be short: I love countrylife and roaming around the Umbrian scenery is one of my favourite things. Even if it means every part of the car comes loose because of the roads. Even if it means wearing ugly trekking boots and the same torn jeans every day. Even if it means scratched legs and arms trying to pick that last asparagus. Even if it means feeling dizzy when you look down from the olivetree you climbed for there was another olive hanging high.

It means having wonderful views that never seem to end. It means the smell of flowers in the sunshine. It means fireflies in the complete darkness of the Umbrian night. It means Umbria.

Umbrian impressions - impressive

What can you do if you have an appointment at the mill at the very inconvenient time of 1.30 pm and, like every other Italian, absolutely don´t want to miss your pranzo (lunch)?

You can only take a trip in a circle of 5 km around your house. But, this is Umbria, so you don´t have to drive any further to have the most wonderful impressions.

I left Viepri and went to Grutti, passing Castelvecchio on the way. This is only a small hamlet with a few houses and a church and a bar. But exacly those two offered the typical view of an Umbrian village. To me they feel like little pearls, that, put all togehther, form the most beautiful necklace you can think of.

It was worth the picture in fall, so imagine to have a cool drink on a hot summer afternoon in the shade of the trees, watching this small medieval church.

Of course it was a quick job for it´s not too easy to leave your car at the middle of the road to take a picture. On the other hand, the very friendly Umbrian people never seem to care about such a thing and are most eager to tell you all about the history and everything else that has happened to them. Once they find out that you can understand their dialect a little – and I am beginning to – they are very proud of their lovely region.

A few miles further, at Cacciano, I met a hunter with his two enthousiastic dogs. He allowed me to take a picture and told me he only hunted for hare, which is a task in the high corn being quick as they are. We had a pleasant conversation about hunting and I could only support his point of view: no killing for the sports, just to serve the purpose of a good meal and as I bonus I got a recipe.

He told me that one of his dogs had been bitten by a viper but fortunately he had brought cortison that widens te veins. By lifting the dog and prevent it from walking, he saved its life and it had not done any harm, for the dog could hardly wait until our chat was over.

Driving on I came as far a Montecastello di Vibio but I will save it for a separate post. It is way too lovely for just a few lines so I owe you. I had been away for only one hour and a half including my talk to the hunter, but I collected a few very precious pearls. Among other, formed by the stunning views on the way home. They just left me a single, but huge problem: I don´t want to leave this place.